Saddle do nicely!

YEE-HAAA! Move over Davy Crockett, I'm QUEEN of the Wild Frontier.

I've always dreamed of following the hoofprints of John Wayne and Clint Eastwood across the plains of the Wild West.

So I moseyed on over to Utah, USA, and lived the dream among hundreds of square miles of breathtaking red desert and mountains.

This vast inland state isn't an easy place to get to (I flew from Heathrow to the capital Salt Lake City via Chicago). But it's well worth the ride.

You'll need more than Trigger to explore it properly so hire your own horsepower-a car or motorhome.

I decided on a gentle start to my adventure so first stop was the Swiss-themed Zermatt Resort hotel in the wilderness of the Heber Valley, less than an hour's drive from the airport.

Canyon

Inside you can get a free back and shoulder massage and enjoy a spa and pool.

Outside is everything you need for the adventure of a lifetime-hiking, fly-fishing, golfing and mountain biking, plus skiing, snowmobiling and snow-shoeing in the winter.

This cowgirl opted to saddle up her four-legged friend at Soldier Hollow with Rocky Mountain Outfitters, which plots riding routes for all standards, from beginners to experts. It also offers rides at Robert Redford's 6,000-acre Sundance Resort-a great favourite with celebs.

After a few minutes of gentle trotting through the hills with only the sounds of birds and insects my cares felt a continent away.

But to get to the truly spectacular scenery that Utah offers, put the real horse back in the stable and rev up the Iron Horse to head south. Roads are straight and virtually traffic free, and there's no shortage of amazing places to stop on the way.

My first break was at Dead Horse Point State Park-part of the Rocky Mountain range that includes the Grand Canyon where Thelma and Louise spectacularly ended their trip.

Gazing from the viewpoints across miles of craggy canyons didn't make me feel like driving off a cliff-the scenery was a fantastic reminder of how great life can be.

Another stop was Arches National Park and its short hiking trail dubbed Park Avenue where I felt as small as an ant walking between soaring golden rocks.

It's a short hop from Moab, a hippyish small town full of unusual shops, bars and restaurants. After stuffing my face with cheap, delicious Mexican food at the lively Miguel's Baja Grill, I sampled the local nightlife. Sixty per cent of Utah residents are Mormon and there are strict alcohol laws, but it's not difficult to get a drink. Many bars are "members only", which means you pay a joining fee of a couple of dollars at the door.

Others only serve alcohol if you order food-but that can be a cheap bowl of nachos.

Next it was time to tame the Colorado River so I signed on for a white-water rafting experience. Being in the desert I expected sun and heat and the river to be refreshing and cooling. Instead it was raining and cold and the river was freezing-but our leader saw us through the torrents safely!

Sheri Griffith Expeditions offers white-water rafting trips of up to 13 days with camping in unspoilt, rocky wilderness.

Perhaps I was unlucky with the weather. Utah is usually hot and sunny -around 22C in spring and autumn and 37C in July.

South of Moab is the small town of Bluff where the scenery is even more spectacular.

I had a restful night at the Desert Rose Inn, a homely wood lodge, and discovered one of the most stunning diners in the world. The Twin Rocks Cafe in the surrounding mountains sells delicious American fare of pancakes, waffles and apple pie. Close by is Wild Rivers Expeditions, which gives historical tours in motorised dinghies on the San Juan River.

Here I learned a heap big amount about the native American Indians as a guide showed off their ancient rock paintings and stone huts.

My journey across Utah was drawing to an end and from Mexican Hat I set off on a beautiful road trip.

For four hours and 175 miles-from Highway 261 and the Valley of the Gods on to Highways 96 and 24-the jaw-dropping sight of rocks and mountains jutting up into the sky is non-stop.

Dinosaur

After the long drive, I was able to stretch my legs on a hike along Creek Canyon in Capitol Reef National Park and look for occasional dinosaur fossils on the way.

At this point Salt Lake City and the airport is a four-hour drive away and on my return to the capital I enjoyed a delicious meal at the award-winning Metropolitan restaurant (no, not bacon and beans) followed by a night at the four-star Marriott Downtown Hotel.

It was a luxurious way to ease back into Western civilisation-but I'll never forget my Wild Western adventure. And I reckon I earned my spurs!

GETTING THERE: For further information on Utah and for a free destination guide log on to www.utah.travel or call 08456 020574.

Bon Voyage offers fly drive holidays to Utah from £995 including return flights from London or Manchester, fully inclusive car hire and accommodation.

For reservations contact www.bon-voyage.co.uk or call 0800 316 0191.

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