Step Wight back in time

THE Isle of Wight is a bit of an enigma.

You either love it, or you've never been.

The tiny island is many things to many people. To music fans it's the home of two of the coolest festivals in the UK . . .

To Jurassic Park fans it's home to the biggest collection of dinosaur fossils in Western Europe.

And some people are just grateful it exists at all-otherwise no one would ever be able to spell their name!

The island is about to be swamped as 20,000 music fans descend for the three-day Isle of Wight festival starting on June 12 to see top acts such as rock legend Neil Young, the Ting Tings and the Prodigy.

Although the island will be transformed into a mini-Glastonbury, the crowds that flock to Seaclose Park, near Newport, are nothing compared to the 600,000 who took over the island in 1970 to see The Doors and The Who.

The island takes a breather for a few weeks in the summer before doing it all over again. More than 17,000 fans arrive for the 2009 Bestival music bash in Robin Hill on September 11, when Lily Allen, Massive Attack and Kraftwerk are set to wow the masses.

But although the stunning success of these gigs brings in a much needed tourist boost, there is much more to this destination than sweaty music festivals. Unspoilt countryside gives way to picturesque villages and stunning seafronts. It takes just 40 minutes on a ferry from Portsmouth to hop over to the island and because it measures just 147 square miles, it's easy to get around.

Before we visited, we were amazed at the number of glowing recommendations we had from people who'd fallen in love with it. Yet, it's almost a guilty pleasure- a secret shame to admit that olde world England floats your boat.

Maybe it's the long association with dinosaur bones, but it's often unfairly looked on as a land that time forgot.

Explore

Certainly, the minute you step off the ferry it does seem like a world away from the hustle of a big city.

We stayed in Ventnor, a gorgeous former Victorian town set among zig-zag roads on the hill overlooking the Channel on the south coast.

The Wellington Hotel provides a stunning spot to sit out on the balcony and watch the tide come and go.

It's family-friendly and perfectly placed to head down to the beach and seafront. And for new restaurant owner Carlos, nothing is too much trouble.

Ventnor is a cracking place to explore the island. Bonchurch, where Charles Dickens wrote David Copperfield and the site of the island's best preserved Victorian village, is a walk along the coast.

To go back further in time, head to Sandown and sample the new Dinosaur Isle (www.dinosaurisle.com ), one of two museums celebrating the Isle of Wight's heritage as a rich source of fossils and bones.

Modern and engaging, it's a treasure trove for kids and the Jurassic Park-style sound effects and life-size animated models are so realistic, the kids are suitably scared.

But if it's real-life animals you're after, look no further than Amazon World (www.amazonworld.co.uk ), a collection of exotic creatures you're not likely to see in a regular zoo.

Our girls Claudia, four, and two-year-old Grace loved the tunnels that took them into the displays (albeit separated by glass) but dads will prefer giant fruit bats, tarantulas and scorpions that look like they've walked off the set of the Temple of Doom.

Over on the west coast is the dramatic coastline of Alum Bay, with the stunning backdrop of rock cliffs at The Needles that give the island its unique multi-coloured sand.

And from there it's only a short drive to picturesque Yarmouth harbour, where ferries can also take you back to the mainland and, sadly, back to the present day.

Getting there

WE'RE in the middle of National Ferry Fortnight (www.sailanddrive.com) so Wightlink are offering a special deal if booked before Friday.

Crossings from Portsmouth to Fishbourne, or Lymington to Yarmouth cost from £35 for a car, two adults and up to five children go free. By foot, two adults cost from £11.40 per person with up to five children travelling free. Voucher required for offer from www.wightlink.co.uk/ferryfortnight/

Quote "ferry fortnight" when booking on 0871 376 1000.

Two nights B&B at The Wellington Hotel (01983 856600, www.thewellingtonhotel.net ) costs from £123 per person including Wightlink crossing. Wightlink also have a passenger FastCat from Portsmouth to Ryde with packages to the Isle of Wight festival and Bestival.

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